Togo-Lome
I almost skipped this country- and I'm so glad I didn't! There is so much to discover in this country- it's not just a knockoff Benin. I truly enjoyed exploring it and learning about the history, seeing the landscape and meeting some really great people. I started in Agbodrafo(House of slaves) and Aneho(Glidji-Kpodji, historic center and mosiac's). My first introduction to Vodun (Voodoo).
Remember, they kept them underground, so that's what the hole in the floor is above.
Next were the mosaic's showing the pillars of faith for Vodun(Voodoo).
The “pillars of faith” in Vodun(Voodoo) are the belief in a supreme creator, the role of intermediary spirits, ancestor veneration, ritual practice, the interconnectedness of all life, and an ethical path toward spiritual harmony. The biggest surprise for me was the fact that it is only to be used for good. Here everything I knew about Voodoo was bad. Just for informational purposes I'll list the pillars.
1. Belief in a Supreme Creator
All Voodoo traditions acknowledge a single, all‑powerful creator god — called Bondye in Haiti, Mawu in West Africa, or similar terms elsewhere. This deity is the ultimate source of all life and the universe, but is generally seen as distant from daily human affairs.
2. Intermediary Spirits (Lwa/Loa)
Practitioners connect with a pantheon of spirits known as loa (West African). These spirits act as intermediaries between humans and the creator, each governing specific domains such as love, health, work, protection, or nature. They are honored through offerings, rituals, and sometimes spirit possession.
3. Ancestor Veneration
Respecting and honoring ancestors is central. Ancestors are believed to remain active in the spiritual realm, offering guidance, protection, and blessings. Rituals often include altars with food, drink, and personal items to maintain this connection
4. Rituals, Offerings, and Spirit Communication
Voodoo emphasizes structured ceremonies — drumming, music, dance, and offerings — to invite the presence of the lwa, honor ancestors, and seek healing or protection. Offerings (e.g., rum, flowers, candles) are tailored to the specific spirit or ancestor being honored.
5. Holistic Interconnectedness
Voodoo teaches that all beings — human, animal, plant, and even inanimate objects — are spiritually connected. This worldview fosters ethical living, harmony with nature, and respect for the community.
6. Healing and Spiritual Balance
Illness is often attributed to spiritual imbalance or negative influences. Healing rituals may involve herbal medicine, spiritual baths, or blessings, aiming to restore harmony between the individual and the spiritual world.
7. Ethical and Communal Path
While Voodoo is flexible, it encourages moral conduct, community well‑being, and the maintenance of respectful relationships with the spiritual realm. This ethical path is reinforced through shared cultural practices and communal gatherings.
So when you see the alters below that look like they're full of paint or food- that's the offerings.
Notice the Afro-Brazilian architecture of the old buildings. We also stopped at a Vodum village. Right across the street was a Catholic Church.
And to end the day, a quick boat ride aroung Lake Togo.
Lake Togo almost reached the Atlantic Ocean-small sandbar separates them. The next day we took a boat over to Togoville where we visited the second largest Catholic Church in Togo, more Voodoo alters.
Just above is a local art center.
Pictures above are walking around Togoville, the alters and well. One of the alters-on the left- had a live chicken tied to it as an offering. Scared me half to death when it started moving and making noise-I just assumed it was dead...
Below is an art museum-actually it's a private collector from various west African countries. It was so nice to see some of the art, carvings and metal pieces had been preserved.
We also stopped at a resort that was beautiful- too bad it was empty.
They had 4x4's, kids playground, event space, plenty of covered seating, football(soccer) and go carts. Really impressive place. At the end of the day, the hotel owner took me to a wine and tapas restaurant. I wasn't expecting to see this!
And finally I was able to visit a local artist, Jean Koumy, at his home and wow. Take a look. First exterior, then interior. He was contacted by the American Embassy to paint a custom piece for them earlier this year.
OK, this is getting to be really long, so I think I will break this up into 2 blogs. Enjoy, and I'll post the second half of Togo in the next couple of days.
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